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If your purchase is a “bare-root”
rosebush...
In
winter and early spring, dormant bare-root rosebushes are available
from area nurseries and from mail order businesses. Buying a rose in
dormant condition with roots bared gives you the opportunity to review not
only the canes but also the root system for
health and vigor. Choose a bush with two to three strong canes and
multiple good-sized roots. Clip off any broken or damaged root ends before
planting.
Planting suggestions for a
bare-root rose in late fall, winter, or early spring:
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Option
1: Best! Plant it now! Soak the bare-root bush in a bucket of water
for a few hours after purchase to ensure proper root hydration. Place the crown of the bush
(the lump at the base of the branches in a grafted bush or the base of the
main stem in an own-root bush) level with or an inch
or two below the surface of surrounding soil. Water well.
Then temporarily mound soil or mulch up over the lower 6-12 inches of the stems to
provide protection against drying winds until the root system becomes
established.
Pull mounding back from base as weather becomes more mild and rose has
begun to grow.
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Option
2: Heel it in a temporary garden location. Bury deeper than normal to help
conserve moisture until the bush is placed in its permanent home.
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Option
3: Immerse the roots in a bucket of water for a week or two as you prepare
the new bed. As soon as possible, tuck the bushes into their
permanent home.
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If your purchase is a packaged rosebush...
Packaged rosebushes are available from most
local nurseries and many department stores in late winter through spring.
Recognize that rosebushes sealed within narrow plastic packaging have had their roots
severely trimmed in order to fit within the packaging, while boxed roses
like J&Ps -- with more room -- usually have larger root systems. Many growers
pack moist sawdust around the roots within the cover, while others,
especially those that use the cardboard packaging, pack the roots in moist
soil.
Shop at stores where nursery personnel take good care of this nursery
stock, where roses have been watered properly and displayed in shaded areas to protect
vulnerable roots.
Planting suggestions for a packaged rose:
ALWAYS remove the packaging completely! Even
when the rose seller states on the label that the packaging will
deteriorate over time and can be planted with the bush, roses that have
been planted within the shipping box intact often grow spiraling roots
within the box area that tend to strangle each other at the base of the plant.
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Option
1: Best! Plant it now! Soak the now bare-root bush in a
bucket of water for a few hours after purchase to ensure proper root
hydration. Place the crown of the bush
(the lump at the base of the branches in a grafted bush or the base of the
main stem in an own-root bush) level with or an inch
or two below the surface of surrounding soil. Water well.
Then place a temporary mound of soil or mulch up over the lower 6-12 inches of the stems to
provide protection against drying winds until the root system becomes
established.
-
Option
2: Heel it in a temporary garden location. This means planting the bush in
a not necessarily perfect fashion into loose soil for wintering over until
you provide a permanent location early in the new growing season. Bury deeper than normal
to help conserve moisture until the bush is placed in its permanent home.
-
Option
3: Immerse the roots in a bucket of water for a week or two as you prepare
the new bed. As soon as possible, tuck the bushes into their
permanent home.
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If your
purchase is a potted rosebush...
A potted
rosebush can be purchased and planted almost any time of the year with
little stress to the newly bedded bush if certain precautions are heeded. Instructions for planting vary
depending upon the weather and season.
Planting suggestions for a potted rose:
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Option
1: Best! Fall and early spring, plant it now! Clip off any lingering leaves
from the past year’s growing season and discard in the trash. This helps
remove a source of fungal disease spores come next growing season. Don’t
fertilize the bushes at planting time. If desired, a handful of potassium
may be mixed into the soil at the bottom of the planting hole to help with
root growth and to help prepare the bush for cold weather. (The third
number in a fertilizer rating. For example, you might stir in ¼ to ½ cup
of 0 – 0 – 15 below the roots.)
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Option
2: Late winter and very early spring, “heel” it into a temporary bed.
This means planting the bush in a not necessarily perfect fashion into
loose soil for wintering over until you provide a permanent location early
in the new growing season.
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Option
3: Leave it in the pot over winter and plant in mid to late February or
March. Exercise caution when leaving plants in pots over the winter
months. Keep them well watered but not standing in water. Protect from
deep freezes in our area - those below 25° - especially if the temperature
drop is sudden. The cold could damage the vital root system in a pot by
freezing and breaking their tender cell walls. It would help to shelter
the pots under mulch, next to the foundation of the house, or in an
unheated garage during these cold spells. This may sound strange, but be
sure to keep them watered during extended dry periods in winter. It will
help them better withstand the cold.
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Option 4: During warm weather, take special
care with transplanting potted roses, waiting for a rainy period, if
necessary. Water well in days before transplant and have the pot's soil
moist the day of the move. Prepare the hole ahead of time. When removing
the bush from the pot, maintain as much soil around the roots as
possible. Water the new bush in its new home thoroughly, pulling extra
soil up above planting level to help maintain moisture within the bush
as it becomes established. A temporary shade cover over the bush will
also protect it from excess loss of moisture during very warm weather.
Continue to water regularly, daily if necessary.
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